I Trulli
122 East 27th Street (between Park and Lexington)

I have dined at I Trulli several times in recent months due to their more-than-usual menu selection. However, each time I've dined there -- either with a companion or alone -- I have questioned their service. The restaurant is extremely popular for good reason, as the food is excellent. Nevertheless, each visit comes with a service headache that keeps me from frequenting the place more often.

As someone who often differentiate between "Italian" cuisine and "Italian-American" cuisine and a frequent critic of the "boilerplate" Italian menus in most restaurants (almost like Chinese restaurants), I Trulli does offer a menu for those who really enjoy flavours from Italy. I was first attracted to the restaurant when I saw the menu that boasted cuttlefish -- a rarity here (but my favourite while travelling in the Veneto and towards Trieste). Looking at the menu, this is sure an exciting place to check out.

My first experience was during Easter weekend -- and was forced to wait despite having a reservation. Other visits there also had seating problems and lacklustre and indifferent service by the staff. The one occasion that I dined there alone the restaurant was absolutely empty -- and when a party came in towards the tail end of my meal, they just had to put them right next to me in a very large restaurant. They apologised afterwards, but nevertheless, it shows a complete lack of thinking by the service staff.

Still, the food -- for the most part -- was absolutely excellent. I was a little disappointed to see my usual choice of mixed grill removed from the menu (the cuttlefish is only available on the tasting menu now). The entire raison d'etre for going there is gone, which is sad. Nevertheless, the grilled octopus started is excellent. The panzerotti (so-called "mini-calzones), offered when my meal was delayed for some odd reason, was not bad. But whenever I enjoyed a starter I stuck to the octopus. At times I opted for a pasta starter (they do offer a starter-sized portion of all pastas), and the malloreddus is quite nice (I miss Sardinia now). They have a good reputation for hand-made pasta, and it is well-deserved.

For the main course, I used to always have the mixed grill -- as previously mentioned -- and that was indeed excellent. I always loved cuttlefish, and getting that with prawns and octopus is always a joy. I remember a wonderful mixed grill I enjoyed orgasmically in Trieste -- cuttlefish, prawns, octopus, squid, fish, and more for just a few euro... But now, with the menu change, nothing really jumps out at me anymore. The dishes are nice, but it's nothing special anymore.

Overall, the restaurant is popular for a good reason -- it has a diverse and excellent menu, and the pasta is wonderful. However, the service is poor even if the restaurant is not busy. But if you are patient and are tired of the "boilerplate" Italian menu, then I Trulli could be a good option for you to try. But emphasise the patience part.

Food: A-
Atmosphere: B+
For Lone Diners: B-