Abboccato
136 West 55th Street (between 6th & 7th)

I had big expectations for Abboccato -- from the interesting menu to the approach to Italian food from the chefs, I wanted a good, solid meal this Thursday evening. A friend and I went there on a Thursday evening for a late dining slot. The place was relatively empty, normal for this particular week and the hour, but I had hoped it wouldn't compromise the food. Sadly, it did.

At first, we were very impressed. The design was very calming and soothing, using very earth colours and somewhat of what I called "dolomite-y" feel to the entire place. The spacing was excellent, compared to some disasters I've been to recently like Town and Mai House. But sadly, things didn't carry on that well through the night.

Service was good and helpful, and the menu looked interesting. I ordered the fritto misto -- a great test of the kitchen for a relatively simple dish. It came out horrible. The baby squid were nearly all batter and was like eating the scraps of the fryer. From the shrimp to the fish, it was extremely bland and boring -- like one of the line cooks forgot to season. Nope, as the dipping sauce was also extremely bland. Turns out this is the problem with the kitchen here, they have no taste buds -- or extremely sensitive ones. This place was blander than bland!

My dining companion enjoyed the spaghetti neri, which was pretty good. I should have gone pasta. Oh well. My main course was the veal cheeks. The three pieces of veal was nice and tender, but it was accompanied by very, very bitter vegetables and a horrible pile of flavourless polenta. Here we go again, they forgot to season! There has to be one line cook that was totally asleep!

My friend had the lamb chops -- which she said was tough and bland. I tried one, and I agreed. In fact, it was way overcooked, charred beyond belief, and just boring. I could easily do this while half drunk and distracted.

The saving grace was a tasting of grappe after dinner in lieu of dessert. I was not thrilled and was somewhat full anyway, so gave up on this place. Sad, it had so much promise. I wonder if it is a seasonal thing. I may try this place again in the autumn, but for now, avoid, avoid, avoid!

Food: C-
Atmosphere: A-
For Lone Diners: B (*)