Tuesday, June 19, 2007

City Tavern
138 South 2nd Street (at Walnut, in Philadelphia; near 2nd Street SEPTA)

I've not been to City Tavern since I was rather young, so never really experienced what this venerable eatery could produce. I have read much on how Walter Steib fused modern and historic cuisine and turned what could have easily been the kitschiest tourist trap in the country into a place that could stand on its own culinary strengths. After being stuck in a tourist trap in Atlanta days earlier -- which exacerbated an already nasty ulcer -- I was entering with a cautious step.

The place was a tourist trap, as it was a tourist attraction for one. It was featured heavily in all the tourism rags and is in the centre of all the major Philly attractions. And with the staff garbed in clothing from the revolutionary period, and the place decorated like a multi-room tavern that conjured up images of that same period, you could fear the worst -- obese men in baseball caps and shorts from Cleveland with their non-comprehending and loud children, asking questions that would make failing contestants on Are You Smarter Than A Fifth Grader laugh...

This is why I chose, albeit a weekend, a late lunch. The restaurant was rather empty, so that worked fine. I had to bypass alcohol due to the aforementioned ulcer (damn, no old-style beer), but had a wonderful meal. The starter was a very nice duck and pork sausage, which was hearty and delicious -- a pleasant surprise. With some breads made with "old" recipies, it was becoming interesting. I could have used a beer though, as it was rather sunny and warm (even indoors).

The main course was the turkey hash, a simple meal of turkey bits with vegetables and a fried egg. Nothing special, and it was something good for lunch. The menu had more interesting things, but I wasn't very hungry. So I give Chef Staib more than a benefit of the doubt with the menu.

I took off with a lower-than-usual bill (again, unexpected in a "tourist trap") and thought, they did a good job. This is a place worth coming back for -- the food, that is. I don't need the kitsch anymore at this age...

Oh, one extra note. Many people do not know the Swedish part of the Philadelphia region's history, but I felt so much at home looking at a very old map reproduction of Stockholm across the room. I was perhaps the only person that could recognise it from the shapes, which made me think -- ah, I miss the Baltic Sea...

Food: B
Atmosphere: B-
For Lone Diners: B-

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