Le Café Anglais
8 Porchester Gardens (W2; near Bayswater Tube; at Whiteley's)

I headed back to my old stomping grounds of London between Christmas and the new year, but was aghast that most of my favourite restaurants were closed for the holidays. So me and a good friend had to do some advanced planning, and the one we booked was for Café Anglais. I was shocked to find that they created this much-hyped place in Whiteley's -- an awful shopping centre around the corner from where I used to live...

However, going there it reminded me of New York's Time-Warner Center -- and when I stepped into the restaurant the familiarity continued. This place has so many similar touches to the aforementioned centre's Cafe Gray it was uncanny...or deliberate. So how did it compare to the similar-named, similar-themed, similar-looking place across the pond?

Well, the food was certainly better, though that is little praise (read my review of Cafe Gray if you are wondering). The service was borderline shambolic with the staff confused and falling over each other, obviously untrained on items on the food or the drinks menus. We were squeezed into a small table next to various bits of pompous and self-important people that have made Café Anglais one of the most popular places in town in a short time...does it live up to the hype?

This place is pretty big (having been a fast-food joint before its transformation) and the space is rather nice for a restaurant; the old decor of Whiteley's from a bygone age adds a nice touch. The semi-open prep area (like Cafe Gray) and the visible roasting area is the trend these days, but it looks way, way too much like Cafe Gray.

After being completely confused by questions of gin and vermouth, the waiter finally brought us our drinks. After awhile the food came. We split several hors d'oeuvres from across the spectrum. They were pretty good, and I like the variety and ability to share many items. But to be honest, it wasn't good enough for me to remember the specifics so long after dining there...so it wasn't particularly memorable...

The main course I opted for the roast veal. It was done well, but rather bland -- something I can find in better quality at a good pub on Sunday. The chicken legs that my friend enjoyed was a bit better, but I suddenly miss Bavaria...

As the service was shambolic and the crowds thinning out, we decided to pass on the dessert and headed on out. Overall it is a good place -- but perhaps overrated and overhyped. But for that part of town, it is certainly about time a place like this appeared. With the Notting Hill set so close, this place can only get better -- if they train the staff better!!!

Food: B
Atmosphere: B-
For Lone Diners: C (*)