Monday, December 04, 2006

BLT Prime
111 East 22nd Street (between Lexington & Park)

I have always heard wonderful things about this Bistro Laurent Tourondel, that it is always lively and fun, accented by excellent steaks. I was dying for a good steak one Sunday evening, and found that they had a late 8.45pm opening, so I took a table and made the 20 block walk to get in the mood.

The place was packed certainly, and many people were being turned away as I walked in. My table wasn't exactly ready but I opted to sit in the area near the bar -- the section before you reach the main dining room. Bad mistake. I was so eager to eat I forgot that if you are seated outside of the main dining area, your service goes down significantly. Sadly, it ran true once again.

I was hungry and none of the starters looked very complementary, so I went for the wagyu skirt steak, with sides of grilled asparagus and hen-of-the-woods mushrooms. I had high hopes for this place at first when the bread came with pate -- very meaty way of doing things. Nice.

The steak came out and I once again regretted ordering wagyu -- this I'll explain later. The steak was nice, and medium-rare/medium (perhaps just the time it took to come out that cooked it a half level more). A little too cooked, but still nice. The steak was nice and flavourful. I don't know why they try to push sauces on people, but good steaks do NOT need sauce. Sauces are made to cover or masque, spices accentuate. Big difference.

The mushrooms were very nice as were the asparagus. I thought it was a completely satisfactory meal. The service slowed dramatically after I was finished, and it took nearly as long to get my bill as to get my food. That was very annoying, and it damaged the experience. I can see how this place would not cater well to lone diners by atmosphere, but the nature of steaks make it good since it is fast.

As with why not wagyu, it is pretty obvious. Every restaurant serves wagyu now like some kind of super cow. It is a select breed and good, but definitely not worth the hype. What makes kobe beef in Japan so good is not just the breed, but what they do with the animal -- the 'massages' and the beer amongst other pamperings. Do you think ranchers in Oregon do that with their wagyu at all? I don't think so. Frankly, a good Angus is probably better than a poor wagyu from Oregon. And remembering good kobe from Japan, this was not worth it.

The steak was okay, but not one of the best I've had in the city. In fact, the best skirt steak I have had in New York was not at a specialty steakhouse, but at the all-you-can-eat Brazilian churrascaria Porcão -- the home of the most delicious and decadent skirt steak. Go there instead of BLT if you want good skirt steak.

I think BLT Prime is a good restaurant and popular for many good reasons, but it really doesn't live up to the hype. A good steak has to be done with love and served with care, and sadly, bad service could easily ruin the experience, not to mention the steak's cooking. I'd still recommend this place, but don't bother with the wagyu. You won't be able to tell the difference especially with the slow service and if they force all that sauce on you.

Food: B
Atmosphere: B
For Lone Diners: B+

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