Monday, December 11, 2006

Japonais
111 East 18th Street (between Park and Irving)

I am always sceptical of any fusion of Asian cuisines, but was talked into Japonais by some friends I've not seen in months. The three of us gathered there on a Sunday evening and the entire experience turned out to be a major surprise -- a pleasant one.

The place was relatively empty except for a few loud groups, but it was pretty nice. The darkness and openness made it useful for both romantic outings and group dining, and the service was extremely efficient (perhaps helped by it being not very busy). The chairs were a bit awkward, however...it was like from a bad 70's movie...

The concept is interesting, with two separate kitchens -- one for sushi, one for cooked foods. They worked independently of each other and that allowed for the enjoyment of both styles. I am very much from the old school when it comes to Japanese food -- I like my sushi nigiri, not rolls at all, and I would never order using a piece of paper. But this place was a nice surprise.

For a starter we shared a few things. The sushi came out first. The chu-toro was nice and tasty, as was the uni. Nice start, much better than the shambolic fish I get at "top" places like Haru (I remember the hamachi having bone!). I could eat here all day. We also split some cooked starters. The lobster egg rolls were okay (too much batter and roll) and the crab cakes okay (too loose), nothing special.

For the main course I had the seafood hotpot, which was nice and flavourful. It had oysters, cockles, king crab and scallop -- but so little of it! The starters had more food! It was good but way too lacking. My dining companions' seafood dishes were good, but they said was a bit heavy.

We shared two desserts -- the sorbet and cheesecake. Not bad both of them. Overall it was a pretty good dining experience, nothing extraordinary, but it was nice. I think the creativity is excellent, not encroaching on the standards. But they need to work out some kinks. I'm sure its Chicago (original) location is superb, and this New York spin-off will rise to the challenge soon.

Food: B+
Atmosphere: B+
For Lone Diners: B (*)

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