Tuesday, October 17, 2006

Esca
402 West 43rd Street (at 9th Avenue)

I am blown away, simply blown away... What an amazing find, this Esca on the West Side. I had heard about it, and the menu was simply brilliant from its website. So one one evening, I decided to trek across town and try this place out. And wow, was I blown away...

First of all, I was surprised to get a table on a walk-in, but I did. The place was jolly and full of happy people, so it was a little annoying to be alone. I was soon relaxed by the extensive Italian wine list, and cheerfully chose a bottle (well, why not eh?) of Lagrein. I absolutely love this Tyrolean treat, and it complemented my meal perfectly (even if there's a colour discongruence to you wine snobs!).

The menu was unique even in New York terms, and I was at a loss to choose. I ended up choosing rare items, and I was soon rewarded with a spectacular feast that I've not experienced in years. I usually don't rave about Italian restaurants outside of Italy, but this one is just...wow.

My starter was a simple crudo dish, but rather unique -- sea cucumber. Usually you'll see it as a rare treat in Chinese restaurants (usually braised), but this raw ceviche-styled version was just fantastic. With a similar texture to jellyfish, the flavour of herbs and lemon juice just tenderises it to perfection. Wonderful start!

When my main course showed up, my mouth was hanging open. I ordered i maccheroni alla chittara -- a brilliant pasta dish with lump crabmeat and an awesome amount of sea urchin. I remember having ricci di mare on pasta in Sicily and there the portions were tiny. This was beyond generous. The pasta was incredibly rich and filling, and I was almost hoping to order a second plate and happily explode there on-site. Wow...

Finishing the wine, I was nearly orgasmic already. I then enjoyed a nice grappa as always, and took a rare desert -- homemade gelato of maple and walnuts. Excellent. I was loving this experience. A nice house sparkling wine and a chat with the sommelier and chef made this a perfect evening.

Looking this morning at the menu of Esca, I start drooling again. There is just way too many uniquely-done dishes at each level for me to eat there weekly and never be bored. Too bad it's across town on the West Side. But I will be more than willing to make that hike for a dinner half as good as this one. Even as a lone diner, I soon forgot I didn't have a companion...it was that dreamy.

Wow...

Food: A+
Atmosphere: A-/B+
For Lone Diners: B+

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