Friday, October 27, 2006

Ammos
52 Vanderbilt Avenue (at 45th)

Having lived above a Greek restaurant while in college, I know and love good Greek food. Though lamb is and will always be my favourite form of Greek cuisine, I also enjoy the wonderful seafood served by this estiatorio.

When my own plans collapsed, I figured I can enjoy a good meal by myself again. Why not, that's what this blog is supposed to be about, right? I remember Ammos from a quick lunch I had months ago, so I decided to give this estiatorio my full dining attention that evening. And that was a good choice.

It was not very busy as it was last Monday evening, so I had a nice, long relaxing meal with a few glasses of good (and underrated) Greek wine. The atmosphere was nice as my seat was a good position to people-watch on Vanderbilt across from Grand Central.

The waiter had warned me some of the fishes were not available (always a good sign of a restaurant, to stick with fresh choices and not always trying to "force" the menu standards). For starter, I chose my all-time favourite cheese -- halloumi. I absolutely love this strong goat cheese, grilled Cypriot-style. Excellent and large dish...mmm...goat cheese...

The main course was a grilled tsipoura (dorado), which was quite nice. I thought the sauce on top was a bit too sour, but it was nevertheless an excellent fish. The side of spanakorizo (spinach rice) was boring, but I somehow ate it too.

I think this place is quite good, especially if you stick to the fresh grilled fish -- and of course the halloumi. I been here before when its full, and it can get very full. But otherwise, this was a nice dining experience once again.

Food: B+
Atmosphere: B+
For Lone Diners: B+

Madiba
195 Dekalb Avenue (between Carlton and Adelphi)

A good friend of mine of South African origin visited me during the week, and she was homesick -- so we arranged to head all the way to Brooklyn to enjoy some good ZA food at Madiba. She also wanted to bring home to California some good dried ZA sausages and meats, so we trekked out to Brooklyn.

It was a hike, but a place not to be missed. The atmosphere was nice and festive, and we enjoyed a huge meal. The African decor with plenty of colours made the entire experience very relaxing and charming at the same time, accentuated by the excellent and voluminous food.

I enjoyed the ostrich carpaccio, which was excellent. My main dish was pap and boerewors, an excellent and meaty option. The boerewors, meat sausages, were nice and the pap -- a spätzle-like starch, made it a very filling meal. My friend enjoyed the potjie bredie -- a nice stew. I think it was oxtail that day, but I couldn't tell. Nevertheless it was excellent.

Though that part of Brooklyn is a hike from Midtown Manhattan, this was a worthy trip to experience some good, solid South African food. I was very impressed and would probably trek down here at some point by myself again. Excellent!

Food: A-
Atmosphere: B+
For Lone Diners: B (*)

212
133 East 65th Street (at Lexington)

I was meeting someone for a late dinner and she suggested 212 -- a rather well-known trendy bar. I wasn't very familiar with it, but it had a reputation of being more of a night-spot than a restaurant. However, I went along with it.

As we dined at 8:30pm, it was sheer chaos -- compounded by the Thursday night effect. It was full of loud drunks and insane people. It took us awhile to get seated. I was losing my patience very quickly, as the bar was understaffed and overpriced (nearly 50 bucks for a vodka and a margarita?). And plus they can't reconcile the bar and restaurant charges? What kind of a joke operation is this?

By the time we were seated, I was fuming. If my dinner companion wasn't so good, I would have walked. However, despite the bad service and the waiters dropping things left and right, it was good that I stayed. The meal turned out to be quite satisfactory, not excellent, but good.

I enjoyed a beef carpaccio salad, which was nice. For a main course I had the hanger steak, which was done quite well. I've not had a good steak in awhile, so this was nice. We shared a chocolate souffle which was nice, and I washed it down with (rather unusual for me) some calvados.

The place was still loud, nasty and full of self-important drunks when we left. As nice as the food was, this is not a place I want to go back to -- to eat nor to drink. I can't stand people who are so bloody arrogant. If you do, this is your scene totally...

Food: B
Atmosphere: D-
For Lone Diners: F (*)

Sunday, October 22, 2006

Index...

Well, it's about time I do an index:

Alcala (E46th & 1st/2nd)
Country (Madison & 28th/29th)
Da Ciro (Lexington & 33rd/34th)
Esca (W43rd & 9th)
I Trulli (E27th & Park/Lex)
Korea Palace (E54th & Park/Lexington)
La Carne Grill (Lexington & 39th/40th)
Phoenix Garden (E40th & 2nd/3rd)
Porcão (Park & 26th)
Ruby Foo's (Broadway & 49th)
Tintol (W46th & Americas/Broadway)
Turkish Kitchen (3rd & 27th/28th)
Ureña (E28th & Park/Madison)

Ruby Foo's
1626 Broadway (at 49th Street, Times Square)

A friend of mine asked me to lunch last week near Times Square...I know practically nothing in that part of town. He works nearby and had a short time for lunch, so I acquiesced to head into travel central. Goodness I hate tourists...and those people who have no umbrella etiquette! I nearly lost my eye a few times waiting in the drizzle for my friend outside of this restaurant.

I find these "multi-Asian" eateries usually with distaste, and sadly Ruby Foo's did nothing to change my opinions on these why-are-we-trendy places. The menu is a hodge-podge of strange Asian dishes done poorly, and the atmosphere is just Time Square if you know what I mean.

Instead of chancing on any of the main dishes, we just split a few starters. So many restaurants are trying to capitalise off tapas/mezes cuisine it is annoying -- and they seem to make incredible profit from them with those uneven prices. The fried calamari was horribly bland -- like if the batter was not seasoned. The steamed mixed dimsum sampler was not bad, but nothing special for that price. And the "glazed eel roll" was more papaya than eel (was there any eel at all?). Boring.

I left the place very, very bored. I wasn't revived until I reached the awesome Kurowycky sausage shop in the East Village where I loaded up on stuff for a few feasts. Why do so many people do these faux Asian fusion places when all they do is bad food? If they want to popularise dimsum in this atmosphere, they should learn from London's über-successful Ping Pong chain. Now that is trendy but good dimsum.

Skip this place. It is a disaster, especially those trying to avoid tourists. The food is bad, the service is shaky at best, and the atmosphere blows badly. Ugh, not good at all...

Food: C-
Atmosphere: C+
For Lone Diners: B (*)

Da Ciro
229 Lexington Avenue (between 33rd and 34th)

Friday evening bookings in New York are always difficult -- nearly impossible if left to the last minute. However, after a few tries for Italian eateries in Midtown, I finally found one for me and a friend of mine -- Da Ciro. The website look quite good and the menu interesting, so I thought, why not?

After having a few drinks at the Estonia House (perhaps this reveals something about my identity?) I walked the 2 blocks to Da Ciro and found my friend waiting at the bar. He then proceeds to tell me they lost the reservation...ugh, not a good start. It took another 10+ minutes for us to be seated.

I was already in a foul mood before then, so I was hoping for a good experience. The service was pretty good despite the restaurant looking a little chaotic. We had an excellent server which made things better. The Sicilian wine was not bad too.

My starter was grilled octopus, which was not bad. I liked the simplicity of it and that made me happier. The main course was black linguine with seafood. This was a bit disappointing. The pasta didn't taste fresh and there was no "inkling" of ink at all. Too bad. It seemed way too standard. This does not compare to the fradiavolo I make in my own kitchen at all -- my own way to judge Italian places.

I ended the meal with espresso and a large scotch. I usually take grappa after an Italian meal, but this seemed so faux Italian, so I didn't bother. The drink was good. No dessert today, I'm putting on weight again...

Overall Da Ciro isn't bad at all, but not spectacular. In a town with so many "Italian" places, there's no reason to settle for anything but near-perfect. So this will likely be a pass in the future.

Food: B
Atmosphere: B
For Lone Diners: B+ (*)

Tuesday, October 17, 2006

Esca
402 West 43rd Street (at 9th Avenue)

I am blown away, simply blown away... What an amazing find, this Esca on the West Side. I had heard about it, and the menu was simply brilliant from its website. So one one evening, I decided to trek across town and try this place out. And wow, was I blown away...

First of all, I was surprised to get a table on a walk-in, but I did. The place was jolly and full of happy people, so it was a little annoying to be alone. I was soon relaxed by the extensive Italian wine list, and cheerfully chose a bottle (well, why not eh?) of Lagrein. I absolutely love this Tyrolean treat, and it complemented my meal perfectly (even if there's a colour discongruence to you wine snobs!).

The menu was unique even in New York terms, and I was at a loss to choose. I ended up choosing rare items, and I was soon rewarded with a spectacular feast that I've not experienced in years. I usually don't rave about Italian restaurants outside of Italy, but this one is just...wow.

My starter was a simple crudo dish, but rather unique -- sea cucumber. Usually you'll see it as a rare treat in Chinese restaurants (usually braised), but this raw ceviche-styled version was just fantastic. With a similar texture to jellyfish, the flavour of herbs and lemon juice just tenderises it to perfection. Wonderful start!

When my main course showed up, my mouth was hanging open. I ordered i maccheroni alla chittara -- a brilliant pasta dish with lump crabmeat and an awesome amount of sea urchin. I remember having ricci di mare on pasta in Sicily and there the portions were tiny. This was beyond generous. The pasta was incredibly rich and filling, and I was almost hoping to order a second plate and happily explode there on-site. Wow...

Finishing the wine, I was nearly orgasmic already. I then enjoyed a nice grappa as always, and took a rare desert -- homemade gelato of maple and walnuts. Excellent. I was loving this experience. A nice house sparkling wine and a chat with the sommelier and chef made this a perfect evening.

Looking this morning at the menu of Esca, I start drooling again. There is just way too many uniquely-done dishes at each level for me to eat there weekly and never be bored. Too bad it's across town on the West Side. But I will be more than willing to make that hike for a dinner half as good as this one. Even as a lone diner, I soon forgot I didn't have a companion...it was that dreamy.

Wow...

Food: A+
Atmosphere: A-/B+
For Lone Diners: B+

Monday, October 16, 2006

Porcão
360 Park Avenue South (at 26th Street)

Brazilian churrascarias are always challenging on the belly and nerve, but on a good day (especially a cold one), it is exactly what the doctor ordered. On a cold Saturday evening, me and a good friend stumbled out of a Midtown bar looking for a good meal -- and I suggested Brazilian. We had once (again after some drinks) eaten in Midtown West's best churrascaria -- Plataforma -- and hoped Porcão would live up to that fine eatery. And goodness did it...

As dynamic and flashy as its West Side competitor, Porcão may actually be better. Away from the hoardes of tourists on the West Side, this East Side spectacle charges less and offers better food. The experience is more intense here, with stronger flavours. Perhaps the knife-wielding waiters are not as good at spanning the restaurant as in Plataforma, but the food still comes quick and good. The aroma is mesmerising...

I particularly enjoyed the sausages, the chicken hearts, and the various cuts of beef. The quality is not compromised by the portions at all. They were flavoured much more daringly than its West Side competitor, and you can really taste the meat. I feel there is a much more simple way of doing thing here than at Plataforma or at its competitive chain from Brazil, Fogo de Chão -- which is a good thing sometimes. The pace of the eating and quality of the meats make this a fine place for a big night out -- especially a nice cold night with an empty belly! I definitely felt like a "porker" here!

To add a proviso, with two carnivores on the table with an excellent bottle of wine, we chose to skip the salad bar...it supposed to be quite impressive, but we were on a quest for meat. So I can't comment on it! And having dined at many churrascarias alone, I know that it could look really odd, but it's fast and furious -- the best thing for a lone diner! What a great place!

Food: A-
Atmosphere: B+
For Lone Diners: A- (*)

Tuesday, October 10, 2006

Phoenix Garden -- redux
242 East 40th Street (between 2nd and 3rd)

As I wrote my last review in anger and in some stomach discomforture, I didn't think I'd go back for another go at Phoenix Garden. Nevertheless, as my "local Chinese" I had little choice, unless I want to visit one of the very limited grocery options near me. This is one of the frustrations of New York, trying to find a good grocery option that's within bag-carrying distance.

So I actually decided to test the take-away system once again. This time I spoke to someone who seemed to know what he was talking about, asking him for a few things on the Internet version of their menu (while not on their print version for take-away). He was surprised at the website being up (!!) but said both dishes I wanted was available.

I picked up the food and got home with a sense of scepticism, but nevertheless went for it. The spring rolls were bland and boring, and I started worrying. But an incredible turnaround soon -- the shark's fin and shrimp dumplings were nice (and actually fresh, unlike my last attempt into steamed food at this restaurant). That gave me some hope.

The two dishes I ordered were the steamed minced pork with squid and the beef flank with turnips in casserole. To my amazement, both were done extremely well and tasted like it was from a reputable Chinese chef. The steamed minced pork was done nicely, not overly saturated by other ingredients (including the squid). Though it would have been nice with salted egg or salted fish, this was excellent. The casserole was also excellent, reminding me of similar dishes I've enjoyed in Asia. Both dishes met with authenticity, which caused me to write this second review.

Though not at the level of Royal China in London, possibly one of the best Chinese restaurants in the world, these dishes gives me lots of hope for Phoenix Garden in the future. I just need to remember not to order on a busy Friday night.

Food: A-
Atmosphere: n/a
For Lone Diners: n/a

Monday, October 09, 2006

Alcala
342 East 46th Street (between 1st and 2nd)

There is an abundance of good Spanish restaurants in New York. And thank goodness they all have an individual flare -- unlike the overwhelming number of "boring" Italian restaurants in the city with the same boilerplate menus. Amongst the many excellent Spanish eateries, my favourite over the past year has been Alcala.

A hidden gem right near the United Nations, a bit out of the way even for many Midtown residents, Alcala featured an exciting menu that combines both flare and good, down-home taste -- without the pretentiousness that has crept over many other otherwise-good Spanish restaurants around Manhattan. A perfect place for a group, a perfect place for a romantic meal, a perfect place to dine alone.

This time I was dining with some friends visiting (one from London, one from Texas). They loved the atmosphere and meal as much as I did despite the diversity of their geographic origins. I enjoyed the Basque-y Larruskain seafood soup -- excellent blend of tastes without exaggeration that sometimes ruins a good traditional dish in Manhattan. The chipirones en su tinta -- squid in ink -- is my all-time favourite dish in Spanish eateries, and Alcala does it to near perfection. My dining companions enjoyed various dishes, ranging from the clams starter to the duck confit -- all to their extreme satisfaction.

Again, a rarity, but I enjoyed a dessert as my dining companions also did the same. The rice pudding was modest and thoroughlly enjoyable; my friends enjoyed a mixed selection, which tempted the tastebuds with rich chocolates to subtle apples. Fantastic!

Having dined at Alcala a few times earlier, I had expected a wonderful meal. To see my friends enjoy it as much as I did gratified me, as I love to share my knowledge of good food. The service is excellent, boasting an Old World courtesy about it. And a fine selection of wine makes this restaurant one of my personal favourites in New York, whether alone or with others. Highly recommended, even if you need to run across town for it!

Food: A
Atmosphere: A
For Lone Diners: A

Friday, October 06, 2006

Korea Palace
127 East 54th Street (between Park & Lexington)

Korean cuisine is a difficult one to enjoy alone, as many of its dishes are prepared for a culture of socialising -- the communal plates, the BBQ, the large hotpots, etc. I remember feeling rather out of place dining in Seoul while travelling there alone -- but the excellent flavours always made up for it. Korea Palace, the only Korean restaurant in this part of Midtown, is an excellent example of how Korean cuisine can be enjoyed by everyone -- including the lone diner.

After having a few drinks with some mates from London, I went looking for food -- and had a craving for Korean. So I wandered into Korea Palace for a late supper and had myself a wonderful time with excellent food and the best companion I needed that evening -- a bottle of soju!

Being rather hungry, I opted for BBQ this evening, and chose my usual -- kalbi (ribs). Even before the ribs were ready, the usual onslaught of Korean snacks came out. I usually gorge myself with kimchee and others before my main course arrive, but yes, I was hungry, so I did so with gusto. And one feature of this restaurant, having frequented this eatery, is the complementary "dish of the day" (this particular evening's was a very interesting dumpling-like dough in hot Korean sauce...excellent!).

The kalbi itself was excellent, obviously well-marinated and grilled carefully -- no serious charring, no undercooking, and the meat remained extremely juicy. Since I was alone, they generously grilled the meat in the kitchen, arriving on my table fait accomplit. Perfect. I've never had a bad kalbi here ever.

A look through this restaurant's menu will give any Korean food lover reason to drool -- even those not familiar with Korean cuisine will find much to enjoy. The menu pleases both the novice to the connoisseur. The mandoo (dumplings) are much recommended as a starter, as are the porridges. I've never had a bad meal here, not even a mediocre one, so it is highly recommended. And for the lone diner, it is a simple and friendly environment, with extremely quick and efficient service.

The meal, as always, topped off by slices of fresh orange. Nice...

Food: A
Atmosphere: A-
For Lone Diners: A-

Monday, October 02, 2006

Country
90 Madison Avenue (between 28th and 29th)

This Sunday brunch process was not one that lacked drama. A friend had suggested we meet at Country, a place I had heard good things about. Sure, why not. So as I walked down 3rd Avenue, I witnessed an extremely old lady having fallen down. So a quartet of us good Samaritans helped her home up a few blocks, but we ended up calling for an ambulance due to her 93-year old hip possibly being seriously damaged. So I didn't make it down to Country until we got her safely into the hands of the EMS. What saddened me is that not more people tried to help...what pissed me off is how many people tried to be obstructive. Ugh...

So by the time I got to Country I was pretty fumed up. I had a coffee and my friend to calm me down a little, and I needed some comfort food. I didn't want a large meal, but I ended up having a big and wonderful brunch. And comfort food comes best in the form of grits -- a food I miss since coming up to the North...

This particular dish was quite unique and large -- a layer of barbequed pulled pork on the bottom, with grits in the centre and topped by grilled shrimp. What a fantastic mix! It was shockingly good, a novel way of approaching this humbling form of sustinance. And comfort it did give.

The restaurant, which is within the posh Carlton Hotel, offers a very nice atmosphere that would accommodate the lone diner to the large group -- as most top hotel restaurants would. The decor matched the general theme of the hotel, without being too trendy nor too conservative. Boasting such a fancy and creative menu for brunch surely keeps Country, already in a prime location, a favourite for the brunch hunters out there.

Food: A-
Atmosphere: A-
For Lone Diners: A- (*)